Відео

Nexstar SE came out around 2006

Got a link for everything except for the filter the entire video is about XD

Dob purist can also be translated as luddite. But a TRUE dob purist with good logic capacity uses a telrad

Technically, the TSA102 is not fluorite, and the flourite version of the fsq106 was replaced by the fsq106ED which isnt flourite. At least from my mainly 2006-2011 industry experience when the only flourite takahashis available were the sky 90 and fs60. But since they are now making FC scopes again, perhaps they are making flourite fsq's again?

Hello Ed A Bit off Topic, but; How about a review on Diagonals. I'm the person you asked about the ES EXOS100. Thinking of getting a Baader, not sure if I should go Mirror or Prism. Can I incoperate a Filter drawer into the image train. Intend on using a Refractor Thanks Frank R

bruh,i buy it one week leater(

£516.94 in the UK ($655.82)!!!!

Sky-watcher Classic Dob 8 inch for observation, Seestar S50 for astrophotography and you are around 1100$ for both as a good start for beginners

It is SO much easier when you properly use the lower handle on the other side. I sold tons of these when i worked at opt 2006-2011. They far outsold the lx200s. At the time they were $2999. A 12" lx90 was comparable in price, but very shakey, only the 8" lx90 was stable. And meade has even less of a mounting system for lx90s and lx200z, no centering pin and just one bolt. Landing pads were absolutely necessary on the meades, but the cpc is much easier to mount, and it clunks into place just by rotating it once you have it on the pin. I demoed mounting it countless times in the showroom. It is much easier to lift than how you did it in this video. Lx200 handles are designes for 2 people, because you really need someone to help you lift it. Hard to believe it is almost 20 years since this model came out. Celestron really got it right with this one.

One of the best views i had of m13 was a mewlon 250 with a nikon 70deg eyepiece. Not mine of course, but the quality of the view was very memorable.

As for the proper mount question, i would say the GM8, since it started life as the celestron G9, intended for the 9.25. But i would prefer to use a g11 or eq6. I never had a 9.25 personally, but many people i knew did, on the cg5 mounts, and it was borderline at best but still usable. I used an 8" lx200R on GM8 and CG5 and that was rock solid, and a C11 on a G11 that was also rock solid. I remember back in the day you could get 11s and 9.25s on the non goto version of the cg5 for LESS than the OTA only price, and that was how the dealer i worked for ordered them, and separated them into mounts and OTAs rather than ordering OTAs and mounts a la carte. I didn't know that first and caught an earful for sending a drop ship order to celestron for a CGE a customer ordered. Barely enough profit margin to cover operating costs when done that way. It was also funny when our local televue rep ordered a cge direct from celestron for the industry insider price, and it turned out we could have saved him A LOT of money had he bought one from us at employee pricing from one that was ordered as a package with the ota and then split up. I miss that 5 year period in my life, almost as much as i miss all those scopes i used to own.

Ive seen black tube 9.25 with the focuser counter, iirc the fork we pulled it off had the byers drive. Don Rothman was still in business at the time and he drove down the hill to buy the forks, wedge and tripod. Then my friend got in a minor car accident and decided to sell the tube to pay for the damage. It was pretty good, but i liked the c11 i got later on better, it was a good specimen and the extra aperture helps

The C11 is 5 lbs lighter than a meade 10

The more you stare at out of focus stars, the more you might start believing the earth is flat and buying a nikon p900

The first scope I bought (my first scope was an inherited 20-60x60 spotting scope), was an 80mm f11, celestron nexstar 80gtl 2004 costco special. I was amazed at how many deep sky objects i could see with that high contrast scope. The tripod was super light and spindly, and the tube clamshell was plastic and a point of flexure, so it took a really light focusing touch and a lot of patience, but I was able to complete mike swansons nexstar 50 list with only a couple of substitutions. Goto was decent, tracking not so much since it was an earlier version of the software. I did my research and knew the shortcomings but had plans for it and my next 2 scope purchases. Next was orion skyview pro 127 maksutov, followed by a hardin 8"f4 newtonian OTA. A baader bracket converted the mount to vixen dovetail, a surplus sale tasco starguide 4 tripod (same as nexstar but chrome instead of stainless) fixed the stability issues and it was a killer little 5" mak goto. An orion 90mm mak off astromart gave me a nice grab and go which worked on photo tripod or the GT, and later became a long focal length guidescope when needed. It had really good optics, i could do 250x on mars and see good detail. The 8" of course went on the svp and a set of orion guide rings and dovetail made the 80mm f11 into a guidescope and I used a 12mm meade reticle eyepiece and did manual guided film astrophotography. A 2" leg cg5 tripod improved the SVP stability and the scope in the guide rings was actually decent on the gt mount on the sg4 tripod as well. During the period before i got the 8" tube, i would use the mak on the gt and the 80mm on the svp which was rock solid. A hardin fire sale added a 6"f8 dob, a 90mm f11 refractor and a 6"f5 on star hoc (svd/cg4 class) mount, which was easy to modify to use the leftover 1.75" svp tripod, which improved it enough to handle the 8" for visual use. I then got a 10" DBA DSO dob (gso) In 2006 i got a dslr, and soon found out manual guiding wasnt sufficient for the more sensitive (than film) ccd sensor. Shortly after i started to work at opt which got me a screaming deal on a celestron 80ed and asgt mount, and one of the.managers sold me an old pentium thinkbrick laptop and celestron (sbig) pixcell 255 to use as a guider. Over the next few years i found mysell selling off those early telescopes, like the 6"f5 ota, the 90mm f11 along with my svp mount, the cel-orion 127gt setup, my 8"f4 tube and paracorr (i got the visual version for the 10"), i dont remember the sale situation for the upgraded star hoc, but that went, as did the 6" dob (regretted that later), and the asgt mount when i bought a coworkers GM8 mount when he upgraded to a G11 when our manager got a titan and sold him that G11. Then a screaming deal on a deforked meade 8" lx200R ota, a used televue 101 (and sold the 80ed), a stellarvue M3 az mount, a grey C11 ota just like Eds, and an early celestron branded G11 to go with it. Of course i got the astrotech 66ed when that came out, in white to match the tv101, and a side by side plate. I also got to own and later sell older parallel SBIG's ST7, ST8, ST9 and ST1k, an ST2000xme color (breifly), and finally an ST7XME deluxe and ao7 which i was planning on using with the CG11 setup for small DSOs, as my only main CCD camera along with the IFW filter wheel and astrodon filters I got with the used ST1k, as well as the pixcel 255 and dsi as extra guiders. There were other scopes that came and went, a clearance c4r/cg4, which i kept the ota and sold the mount, a clearance manual cg5 which i first converted to AZ (i didnt have the m3 yet) and later added an ra drive to use for outreach with the 8R. Later the cg5 and G11 allowed me to sell the GM8. Having the C11 (and the inpending need to scale down bulky items) prompted me to sell the 10" dob with 23mm axiom LX (my 20mm es100 had the same tfov so i deemed it redundant), both later regretted selling. One of my most prized possesions was a coronado solarmax 60 from a meade blowout, which i had convinced craig to buy the lot of the clearance coronados, which led to an even lower price for me and i got to cherry pick from 2 or 3 examples. I had a manfrotto tripod that handled it perfectly, or i could use the m3 or cg5, or piggybacked on the 8" which had a glass solar filter, on the cg5 which I used for solar outreach to show both Ha and white light. A pronto then came into my hands which later in prompted the sale of the 66ed, which had better color correction, but the pronto was clearly sharper and contrastier, and a perfect side by side partner with the tv101. I was also planning on using the sm60 etalon and bf10 with the pronto. I still had the original plastic clamshell, tripod, original hand controller, and 80mmf11 from my first scope, and a craigslist tasco starguide 60 allowed me to rebuild my first scope to its original specs, and have a spare tripod and another option for a cheap light 60mm guidescope. So.now I was downsized to a respectable and satisfying C11, 8" ARC(acf) and televue101 that worked well on either the M3 or cg5 for visual/outreach, the G11 for the 11", or any other of my scopes for imaging, c4r/102mm f10 refractor for visual on cg5 with pier extension, or m3 for visual and outreach, as well as my original 80gtl for nostalgia. And most importantly the solarmax 60 and pronto which i could use on my manfrotto. But it all had to go into storage, a breakdown put me on disability, I bought a 33ft chris craft that barely ran, and soon after had to move onto the boat. During the process, my van was broken into and i lost the coronado and 90 mak, along with my nikon binos and several other things, including 2 bass guitars. On the boat just kept the pronto and c4r and m3 mount. The pronto was in a doskocil sealtight xl case with a decent set of several of my best 1.25" televue, pentax and meade (and some other vintage japan) eyepieces, and my M3 head was in a lighter duty doskocil case with some of my outreach widefields, in 2" and 1.25", and my slightly better outreach eps and some nebula filters were in an orion waist case. Iirc, the rest of my premium eyepiece cases i keot in storge since they were not as needed on the f10 refractor and the pronto case had a nice set in it . I also kept my 20x80 zhumell binos, celestron waterproof 15x70 and a killer unbranded store sample japanese 8x56 waterproof fmc bak 4 binos on the boat as well as the manfrotto for the pronto or binos. My final scope purchase of that era was a $179 black friday sale TPO 6"f6 newtonian in 2017 because i wanted more aperture to use on the m3, that was low enough value to keep on the boat or in the car. Of course i brought the well corrected premium eps out of storage to use with that tube. Another run of bad luck shortly after got me evicted from marina with 60 days notice, and in that period i totalled my car and it got impounded with my 80gtl, 20x80 binos, manfrotto tripod, pronto/prem eps, along with other stuff, which was stolen of course when it was in impound... Of course there happened to be tweakers hanging around when i was moving some gear into storage, and they must have figured out which unit i was because they broke in and got everything... insurance found a loophole and I didnt get a dime. So that was the story of amassing a telescope collection. And losing it in a much shorter time.

Could someone help me understand the difference/comparison between the sv48p and the sv503? Also I dont really understand the difference between the sv503 70mm and 90mm, what does a difference in the diameter mean? And last question how do you connect a dslr to a scope like this?

Came out in 1992 I think

Hi Ed, I have some fundamental questions about eyepieces FOV, magnification and focal length. I am interested in replacing my original eyepieces that came with the telescope with some high end ones, after a long trip around the block I realized what everyone says about replacing the same focal length with better quality ones. But, as much as I love DSOs, I really like to get close up visual shots on the moon, and to be honest it is a main target for me on a daily basis since I live in the city. I tried to use an "eyepiece simulator" to get a sense for what I am looking for, but just got more confused. I have a Bresser 10" dobsonian telescope, and I tried to put these values on the simulator (Astronomy.tools) with 2 eyepieces for comparison and I lost it.. Televue Delos 8mm (Which is 72deg) VS. Televue Nagler 7mm (82 deg) gave the exactly same picture in the circle. Although some other factors have changed. summery 1. Scope: 254mm / 1270mm EP: 8mm / 72° Barlow/Reducer: NoneExit Pupil: 1.6mmMagnification: 159x 2. Scope: 254mm / 1270mm EP: 7mm / 82° Barlow/Reducer: NoneExit Pupil: 1.4mmMagnification: 181x It is commonly said that the max useful magnification is as twice as the diameter of the primary in MM ( in case the atmospheric conditions are allowing of course...) So my question is how is that these eyepieces give different magnifications but still gives the exact same picture??? I am so confused. Lets say I want some super high magnification views of the moon (despite I really like the moon on my scope with 24mm ) so another example that give me the exact same viewing circle in the online simulator: Bresser - Messier 10" - Tele Vue - Ethos - 6mm Scope: 254mm / 1270mm EP: 6mm / 100° Barlow/Reducer: NoneExit Pupil: 1.2mmMagnification: 212x Bresser - Messier 10" - Tele Vue - Nagler Zoom - 5mm Scope: 254mm / 1270mm EP: 5mm / 50° Barlow/Reducer: NoneExit Pupil: 1mmMagnification: 254x what eyepiece should I choose? A narrow FOV or wide FOV? if I choose wide then my magnification Is lower and further from the Max useful magnification but I see the same image as the 50deg eyepiece. so it means I can go even shorter in length and still get a good quality image? I once saw a video of David Nagler explaining on this topic but got more confused. He talked about the eyepiece starches the image, so in this case if I got it right it just means the image would be presented in a larger diameter circle? Can you please make some advise regarding this topic? I really want to but some 2 or 3 eyepieces but pretty lost. Regards, and keep doing this superior work you do!

I had a friend who had one and converted it to a split tune. It had a turned edge so he had to blacken out the outer 1/4". So as a 15.75", it performed pretty well. Of course on a nicer homemade apple ply base

Ed, It’s very nice to see NGC 6939 and 6946. 35 years ago, those were not difficult for me in a 3” f/15 refractor (doublet, uncoated) with Tele Vue eyepieces. As recently as 2019 I saw them pretty well in a 15x56 binocular. NGC 7331: similar story. Not as easy though. I was in semi-rural (Bortle 4) skies on good nights. I note these observations to alert you and your viewers that a person can see a lot with modest instruments. Thanks. Superb review. As usual!

As a teenager in the 70's, my father bought me an OM-1 for my burgeoning interest in astronomy to take pictures with my then new 6" f/8 Criterion RV-6. While I did take a few B/W photos through the scope, my OM-1 got a real workout when I joined the high school newspaper as a sports photographer -- I had a great time with that camera and it got me front row seats to all the games. I did a little side business selling sports prints on the side as I had an enlarger at home. Great memories, thanks Ed! 😊

Ed, If you want to replace it I have one for sale at a bargain price. It was donated to our club and I just want to sell it to buy 2 orion starblast table-top scopes for our library program.

You made my buy one !

The Tasco 60 mm refractor was my very first telescope back in 1970. Ed is right. It was an awful telescope but there was one good thing about it. It was just good enough to start me on a life long love of astronomy. Now I have Celestron 6se.

I understand what your saying about the see star and your right. But stop knocking the product. Not everybody wants a huge set up, some people are happy with what there looking at and get a lot of pleasure at what they see. At least it’s getting people interested and like what they see.

I wonder if its optical perfromance is better than the one of the Skywatcher 90/900 mm achromat.

Thank you for the review. I'm not a solar photographer, but your images look great to me. When I photographed the 2017 eclipse, I used my Canon 5D III with an EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L lens with a slip-on mylar filter. Yes, finding the sun is difficult; the sun is so danged bright. I draped a windbreaker over the camera and viewfinder to block out the surrounding brightness. I wasn't able to travel for the 2024 eclipse, but I was going to buy a focusing cloth that is used with 4×5 view cameras; it's silver on one side and black on the other.

I found this to be very fun and informative.

Poor Ed! You’ve touched a nerve. My superficial perusal of the comments indicate you (and I) aren’t on the same page as the electronically assisted astronomy aficionados. I wonder (and I sure don’t know) whether a significant fraction of the population is comfortable with reality being mediated by screens. And a minority (maybe a tiny one) are not. I suspect the reasons for the dichotomy are multitudinous and my analysis is shallow. But possibly it holds some truth. I found your review interesting and reasonable. Thanks again.

I’ve been watching your other videos where you recommend that 8 inch dobsonian….. I have found some for around 200-300 dollars used and was thinking of getting one but now I just saw this video. My goal is to be able to look at planets and some deep space stuff eventually working my way into astrophotography. This looks like something I can build towards that in the future vs the dobs… I’m sure your bombarded with questions and appreciate any recommendations. One other item my 6 year old is REALLY into space , blows me away with stuff he spits out on galaxy types names and even star types… pretty advanced for his age and I’m pretty sure he would like to look at those also so need to keep it kid friendly. One of my observations is the height of these things are not friendly for little kids. Also he’s done moon stuff with a tiny department student grade that causes more dissatisfaction than enjoyment so I really want something he can use too.

What Ikea Table would you recommend?

İm looking for a telescope for deep space astrophotograpy and i found celestron omni xlt 127mm, should i buy it?

Mine is a 60mm

Your review of the Seestar S50 is 2 months old at the time of my viewing it. Your comments are valuable and make me pause before buying a smart scope. But, here is a video posted 1 month ago by a smart scope user who makes a strong argument for the Seestar in terms of dollars saved by not having to buy a traditional telescope and not having to buy needed expensive astrophotography gear (and the time needed to learn how to use it). This 1 month old video shows how someone with limited viewing time and equipment was able to take what I think is a good image in a short time during lousy sky conditions. Here's the video that I refer to (yes, it at times the video is a little saccharine sweet at times but it still makes its point (I have no connection to the producer to this video: ua-cam.com/video/F7iLR8qwRKs/v-deo.html

your videos are a wealth of information. thanks. new fish here.

Why is it that some 3-minute videos on YT seem like a Half Hour, but Ting's 10-15 minute videos fly-by in less than 5 minutes?

I have this scope and also had to play with the focuser. It has given many hours of fun observing, though i have never experimented with a 2" diagonal and eyepiece. Maybe this autumn...

Mejores las fotos del Schmidt

Muy buenas para ver la luna y planetas en 3D

If someone wants to do h-alpha sun photography, can they convert regular telescope or do they need to purchase h-alpha specialized telescope?

Interesting? Yes sir! That was great. NGC 891 was a challenging object for my 3” f/15 doublet. I was able to see it twice IIRC. What a thrilling hobby! Thanks for the inspiration.

My 180mm mak cas over a 7.25 yes? Affordable 9" mak cas please. Don't need a large telescope except for very faint. These dream scopes exemplified this. Drawn from years of experience.

Excellent presentation, as always. I just bought one based (mostly) on your revew.

1/10th of the time used? how much of this is due to having other options? If someone only has a 12" Dob they're more likely to use it especially set up like you do. Maybe its my bias because I just sold my 8" Schmidt Cassegrain and bought a 12" Apertura Dob with the Castor wheels. I found I never used the Schmidt because it took 1-2 hours to polar align and set up the auto align which seemed to have a 20% success rate. I would find myself just turning it off unlocking the telescope and using like the 8" Dob I had sold.

I had a Criterion RV-6 back in the 1970s. I used it often during my high school years. I sold it near the time I entered college. It was a sweet scope and I have had seller's remorse since. Ed: I thoroughly enjoy your UA-cam channel. Clear skies to you, Sir!

Love your videos Ed. And your audio room is fantastic. I would love to see you review a Hubble optics ultra lite product if you can get your hands on one. Thanks for all you do for astronomy and audiophiles.

Noob question: Can the mirror be recoated? Just curious. I love restoration projects, much to the chagrin of my wife.

Throw out the stinking case, ship it in a box! Offer a case that can hold the scope kitted out for a reasonable price. Who wants to rebuild every time they leave home!

At $419 that is a real deal.

Very stoked for the third part!